Nuku Hiva, (Marquesas Islands)

April 4, 2010

The Marqueses Islands are a relatively unvisited part of French Polynesia, comprised of three distinct islands, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Nuku Hiva and 7 unpopulated islands. The Rotterdam anchored in Baie Taiohae on the island of Nuku Hiva, a volcanic, mountainous and fertile island that mainly produces breadfruit, coconut and tobacco. The locals are known for their Tattoo and carving skills. Their artistry dates back thousands of years and is believed to be the source of the Easter Island stone heads and the Hawaiian Tiki.

We found Nuku Hiva to be arid at sea level but extremely lush and tropical in the highlands and valleys. The interior has lots of farms and though there were 4 wheel cars and trucks, we saw many more horses with riders, which appeared to be a better mode of transportation on the steep mountainous roads and trails in the back country. Unlike other Polynesians, the peoples of the Marquesas, as a norm, are very fair skinned with straight hair, blue, green and light brown colored eyes. And, as with the other French Polynesian islands, they spoke French and Tahitian, or a sort of “Frehitian” if you will. Most of the terrain that surrounds Nuku Hiva is high cliffs right to the ocean; the only beaches were in the two bays, and yes, we saw where TV’s “Survivor-Nuku Hiva” was filmed. If you’ve ever seen a Hollywood set, then you can imagine the area. It was a located on a water inlet, with one of the few beaches on the island (they had to add sand), and it covered an area of approximately 900 square yards.

We are nearly at journeys end and the Captain has turned the Rotterdam, northeast, with a heading that will bring us back home to San Diego. We look back on loads of great memories, recently learned knowledge and some wonderful new friends. Thanks for coming along with us; we hope you’ve enjoyed our first attempt at blogging. We will write a review of our experience with Holland American Cruise Lines, the MS Rotterdam and this cruise in particular, after we get home. Check out cruise reviews for Holland Cruise Lines, Ms Rotterdam at www.Cruisecritic.com .

Wishing you calm winds and blue skies…

Parahi (Goodbye) and Fa’aitoito (Good luck)!

John & Sandy

Top of the world!

Site of Survivor Nuku Hive

It has been fun!

View of the Ms Rotterdam from the highest peak on Nuku Hiva.

Tahiti, Mo’orea, Rangiroa (The Society Island)

April 2, 2010

Sorry for bunching these three together, but the fact is the range from bad to awesome was so extreme that I found it easier to just roll them up in a bundle.

Tahiti was a big disappointment. I guess when you think of Papeete-Tahiti, you automatically think of paradise. Yes it was interesting and a great experience but, Papeete is like most over populated and under maintained cities. There were no really pretty beaches and after Bora Bora, a big disappointment. The largest of the 115 islands and atolls that make up the French Polynesia, Tahiti’s beauty lies in its natural inner beauty its waterfalls, rain forest, fruit trees and tropical flowers.

Mo’orea, on the other hand, was awesome. Located Less than 10 miles northwest of Papeete, Eimeo, as it’s known among the ancestral Polynesians, is Tahiti’s little sister. Shaped like a butterfly with mountain lined wings, it casts a dramatic silhouette against the dual expanse of the South Pacific Sea and sky. Mt Rotui juts from the ancient core of the huge volcanic caldera’s northern rim, separating the luxuriant “twins” (Cook and Opunohu Bays). Do those names ring a bell? They should, it’s where Captain Cook made his infamous landing and Mr. Christian, led the infamous “Mutiny on the HMS Bounty”. I think faced with the same decision; I would have chosen to mutiny as well, it is truly a very beautiful place. This time, John got to swim with the Sting rays and sharks in Opunohu Bay, a truly awesome experience.

And then there was Rangiroa, Largest true atoll in the Society Islands group and one of 4 largest in the world. This coral ring is comprised of 240 motus (islets) separated by more than 100 hoa (tiny channels). It’s 15 square mile land mass, encircles a 630 square mile lagoon. We anchored inside lagoon and upon tendering to the dock; we were able to walk from the lagoon side to the ocean side in less than 10 minutes. If you Google “Rangiroa” you can see the map of the atoll which looks like a necklace. While snorkeling here, we saw, by far, the largest assortment of undersea life, including fish, dolphin, Morey eels and Sting rays.

We leave the Society Islands and head north for the Marquesas and our last stop on this incredible journey, Nuku Hiva.

We were greeted in Tahiti by some sounds and chants!

OMG!  She found another fabric store.

Black sand any one.

Nothing like a cool Tahitian beer!

Vaitape, Bora Bora, (French Polynesia)

March 29, 2010

Upon leaving Raiatea, we cruised over to Bora Bora and anchored off Vaitape, where we stayed for two nights.

Bora Bora is regarded as the most beautiful island in the Pacific. With its lush green volcanic peaks, beautiful lagoons and coral under sea gardens, it is the most picture-perfect tropical island. There is no major shopping or business centers on Bora Bora. Most visitors stay in over water bungalows at all-inclusive resorts scattered around the island. Bora Bora’s Lagoon is three times as large as the land portion of the island and has over 7oo species of tropical fish that call it home.

Our morning began with a ride in a brightly decorated, outrigger canoe. There were 36 people in our Cruise Critic group (3 canoes); ours was under the command of Patrick from Maohi Nui Tours. We circled the island, stopping to swim and snorkel along the way. The shallow coral gardens provided us with awesome fish and reef life, including sting rays, black tip and lemon sharks and large colorful clams. Before returning to the ship, we were taken to a beautiful motu for a beach barbeque where Patrick and his staff prepared a traditional Tamara’a (Tahitian-style feast. On the grill, they cooked lobster, chicken and fresh fish and in an Emu (a fire pit), they baked a suckling pig with taro and vanilla root and breadfruit, all wrapped in banana leaves. We also had marinated raw tuna, mixed with cucumber, tomato, green pepper, onion, lime juice and allow to marinade, then covered with coconut milk. The meal was served traditional Tahitian style, on hand woven palm leaf plates and eaten with your fingers. The tables were set out in the lagoon where the water was about a foot deep. It was an amazing experience.

Our learned lesson of the day, the difference between an island and a motu in the South Pacific is; a motu is formed by dead coral, an island by lava.

Tomorrow Papeete, Tahiti.

Our guide , Patrick!

The 4 Four Seasons Resort, next to our lunch site!

Yea baby!

Now this was interesting. 

What can I say!

Moon rise over Bora Bora, at sail away!

Raiatea, French Polynesia

March 27, 2010

From the first sight of land and the rising sun above Huahine Island, We knew it was going to be a great day. We have truly arrived in paradise. We docked in the town of Uturoa, on the island of Raiatea, a place where they use to perform human sacrifices as part of their ceremonial rites before European missionaries put a stop to it. Raiatea is known as the sacred island, home of many Polynesian legends. In the village of Taputapuatea, ancient priests from some of the most remote and distant regions would meet. Taputapuatea’s temples (marae) were regarded as the United Nations of the South Pacific.

Our learned word of the day, Ia orana (good morning in Tahitian). Our guide and Captain for the day, Bruno Fabre of “L’excursion bleue” greeted us dock side in his outrigger canoe (for 12) and we began an incredible journey. We boated across the bay to the island of Tahaa and proceeded to circle it with stops along the way, looking for good snorkeling sites. We finally stopped on a little motu (small island) named Tuuvahine where we saw some of the most incredible fish and reef life. After yesterdays water experience, John was a little gun shy but this time, the water was clear, smooth as glass and 86 degrees. Needless to say, we had a wonderful time.

After snorkeling we moved on to the next motu and had Champagne, Rum Punch and the most amazing meal of fresh caught Marlin Fritters, Coconut Bread, fresh Marlin Ceviche, yams and a smothered fish in an onion and ginger sauce. We also stopped at a Vanilla Farm as well as a Black Pearl Farm, two of Tahiti’s largest industries. We returned to the ms Rotterdam full, tired and loaded with many very fond memories.

Sun rise over Huahine Island!

Our outrigger canoe!

Tahaa resort with Bora Bora in the back ground.

 

Avarua, Rarotonga (Cook Islands)

March 25, 2010

Avarua, Rarotonga, (Cook Islands), is a little over 1500 miles south of our most recent port of call. Home of several volcanic peaks, Rorotonga is the farthest south destination on our journey to paradise and is just North West of New Zealand. With its craggy peaks that rise from the islands center to its deep green valleys, the island is full of color from the flowering plants that grow in the rich volcanic soil. The fresh picked papaya’s, star fruit and banana’s were the best (juiciest and sweetest) either of us have ever tasted.

By request of Makea Takau, one of the then, 12 ariki (chiefs), Rarotonga was placed under the protection of the British in 1888 in an effort to protect it from an invasion of the French navy based in nearby Tahiti. To this day, the 15 islands that make up the Cook Islands, though very close to French Polynesia, remain an independent nation, closely aligned with New Zealand.

The Rotterdam anchored at the mouth of Avarua Harbor and we tendered ashore. Our day included a short walk around the port area and a snorkeling tour aboard the catamaran, “Hotel California”. The snorkeling, however, proved to be too much for John’s back and knees. Open Ocean snorkeling from a boat is a lot different and harder than snorkeling in shallow waters off the beach. When John jumped into the water, his body shut down causing him to lose focus and breathing control. He panicked and had to retreat to the boat where he found it hard to pull himself out of the water, but after a short rest and a bottle of beer, he was fine.

Tomorrow is another day at sea and the next port is Raiatea, in French Polynesia.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Alicia!

Oh, and yes Sandy found another fabric store!

Tabuaeran, Kiribati

March 21, 2010


We crossed over the International Date Line twice within a 48 hour period and during that time, have had to monitor the ships clocks and daily newsletter to know the exact date and time as we’ve lost whole days and gained new ones. The average air temperature is now 86 degrees and the water temperature is 89.

Our first stop in the South Pacific was the Kiribati Islands with Tebuaeran (Fanning island) being the first visited. This is one of the most under developed places in the pacific, with its 1950 plus population; Tebuaeran has no electricity or running water and receives nearly all of its supplies needs via private boats, cruise ships and a periodic supply ships out of Australia. Tabuearan is an aired low lying atoll with a land mass of 13 square miles, encircling a 426 square mile lagoon. The land is thickly covered with coconut palms and assorted native plants. We also saw some bread fruit, banana and mango trees scattered throughout the island. There are 32 islands that make up the country of Kiribati, of which only 7 are inhabited. The capital is located on the island of Bairiki, (Tarawa).

Entrance to Fanning lagoon at English Channel

The Tebuaeran people were very warm, friendly and inviting. We were greeted with the songs provided by several church groups of assorted ages. There were several long tables filled with hand crafted trinkets and souvenirs for sale, made of wood, shells and palm frowns. Sandy and I brought, several items with us for trading and general gift giving that were received with big grins and delight, fishing line and hooks, combs and brushes, lighters and sugar free bubble gum for the kids.

Tomorrow we will visit another one of Kiribati’s 32 islands, Kirimati (Christmas Island). However, due to the shallowness of the waters surrounding Kirimati, we will only sail around the island on our way to the Equator and our first stop in French Polynesia, Rorotonga.

Aloha to Hawaii

March 18, 2010


A 24 hour rest and lots of good drugs started John back to good health. Holland American’s medical staff does an amazing job of trying to keep all of its passengers in tip top condition. In fact, all of the Holland staff bend over backwards to assist the ultra aged and restricted mobility passengers. We have dozens of canes and crutches and dozens more with wheelchairs and electric scooters on this cruise, yet Holland’s staff has managed to get them on and off the ship with minimum delay, even on the difficult task of transferring to and from the shore tenders.

(March 14, 2010 Maui)

Before the sun rose over Mt Haleakala Crater we were sailing into Lahaina, Maui’s Harbor and were blessed to watch mother Humpback Whales teaching their calves to flap a side flipper or pound their tail on the water surface (their action shocks the fish which is how they catch their food source). It felt good to stand on solid ground after six days at sea and after only having broth, Jell-o and tea for the past day and a half, lunch was a cheese burger and fries with a root beer float at the Cool Cat Restaurant. The day was sunny, warm and filled with lots of fellow cruisers and other visitors to the Lahaina area. An arts and crafts fair was being held under the Banyon tree (that takes up a full city block). We loved all the sights, sounds and smells of Hawaii permeating our senses. A live guitarist played favorites and nearby, you could hear local kids laughing and playing in the surf, all of which made for an awesome Sunday afternoon. After dark, the dolphins were playful and really enjoyed the light our ship cast into the ocean.

(March 15, 2010 Honolulu)

John continues to heal and a visit to Honolulu helped immensely. Long time friend Barb Nolasco picked us up at the Aloha Tower Docks and took us on a driving tour and visit to The National Cemetery at Punch Bowl. We spent the rest of the afternoon at Barb’s home where Kathy Felipe and son Tyler joined us for dinner.

Sandy & Barb @ Punch Bowl

Pulling into the Port of Honolulu

(March 16, 2010 Kauai)

The deep water port of Kauai is called ‘Nawiliwili Harbor’ named for the wiliwili trees that long ago covered the shore. Upon arrival we rented a car for the day and made a COSTCO and Wal-Mart run for supplies, like more wine. Needless to say Sandy visited a few of her favorite fabric shops and before heading back to the ship, we had lunch at our preferred local restaurant in Lihue.

The ms Rotterdam in Nawiliwili Harbor

(March 17, 2010 Kona)

Another outstanding port as we were able to spend the day with long time friend, Barb Azbill. We shared lunch at Barb’s beautiful home and spent the afternoon catching up. Then we did a last minute supply run at Target before leaving our final USA port. At sail away, the Captain tried to give us a view of the active volcano, Kilauea, but the dark of night combined with smoke and ash (the locals call it Vog,) made it impossible to see any lava flowing into the sea.

Barb

Kailua Bay, Kona

Though we had been to the Hawaiian Islands many times in the past, this was by far one of the most relaxing and interesting ways to see and learn more about them. Things like there are more than 130 islands in the Hawaiian archipelago, but only seven are populated.

Well as we say Aloha to the Hawaiian Islands and the United States and head south to Tabuearan in the Kiribati Islands, the Sun is about to set, 5:45 PM, the water temp. is 76 degrees and wine is chilled so until we reach our first South Pacific port, “Parahi, nana”. (Tahitian for goodbye)