Vaitape, Bora Bora, (French Polynesia)

March 29, 2010

Upon leaving Raiatea, we cruised over to Bora Bora and anchored off Vaitape, where we stayed for two nights.

Bora Bora is regarded as the most beautiful island in the Pacific. With its lush green volcanic peaks, beautiful lagoons and coral under sea gardens, it is the most picture-perfect tropical island. There is no major shopping or business centers on Bora Bora. Most visitors stay in over water bungalows at all-inclusive resorts scattered around the island. Bora Bora’s Lagoon is three times as large as the land portion of the island and has over 7oo species of tropical fish that call it home.

Our morning began with a ride in a brightly decorated, outrigger canoe. There were 36 people in our Cruise Critic group (3 canoes); ours was under the command of Patrick from Maohi Nui Tours. We circled the island, stopping to swim and snorkel along the way. The shallow coral gardens provided us with awesome fish and reef life, including sting rays, black tip and lemon sharks and large colorful clams. Before returning to the ship, we were taken to a beautiful motu for a beach barbeque where Patrick and his staff prepared a traditional Tamara’a (Tahitian-style feast. On the grill, they cooked lobster, chicken and fresh fish and in an Emu (a fire pit), they baked a suckling pig with taro and vanilla root and breadfruit, all wrapped in banana leaves. We also had marinated raw tuna, mixed with cucumber, tomato, green pepper, onion, lime juice and allow to marinade, then covered with coconut milk. The meal was served traditional Tahitian style, on hand woven palm leaf plates and eaten with your fingers. The tables were set out in the lagoon where the water was about a foot deep. It was an amazing experience.

Our learned lesson of the day, the difference between an island and a motu in the South Pacific is; a motu is formed by dead coral, an island by lava.

Tomorrow Papeete, Tahiti.

Our guide , Patrick!

The 4 Four Seasons Resort, next to our lunch site!

Yea baby!

Now this was interesting. 

What can I say!

Moon rise over Bora Bora, at sail away!

Raiatea, French Polynesia

March 27, 2010

From the first sight of land and the rising sun above Huahine Island, We knew it was going to be a great day. We have truly arrived in paradise. We docked in the town of Uturoa, on the island of Raiatea, a place where they use to perform human sacrifices as part of their ceremonial rites before European missionaries put a stop to it. Raiatea is known as the sacred island, home of many Polynesian legends. In the village of Taputapuatea, ancient priests from some of the most remote and distant regions would meet. Taputapuatea’s temples (marae) were regarded as the United Nations of the South Pacific.

Our learned word of the day, Ia orana (good morning in Tahitian). Our guide and Captain for the day, Bruno Fabre of “L’excursion bleue” greeted us dock side in his outrigger canoe (for 12) and we began an incredible journey. We boated across the bay to the island of Tahaa and proceeded to circle it with stops along the way, looking for good snorkeling sites. We finally stopped on a little motu (small island) named Tuuvahine where we saw some of the most incredible fish and reef life. After yesterdays water experience, John was a little gun shy but this time, the water was clear, smooth as glass and 86 degrees. Needless to say, we had a wonderful time.

After snorkeling we moved on to the next motu and had Champagne, Rum Punch and the most amazing meal of fresh caught Marlin Fritters, Coconut Bread, fresh Marlin Ceviche, yams and a smothered fish in an onion and ginger sauce. We also stopped at a Vanilla Farm as well as a Black Pearl Farm, two of Tahiti’s largest industries. We returned to the ms Rotterdam full, tired and loaded with many very fond memories.

Sun rise over Huahine Island!

Our outrigger canoe!

Tahaa resort with Bora Bora in the back ground.

 

Avarua, Rarotonga (Cook Islands)

March 25, 2010

Avarua, Rarotonga, (Cook Islands), is a little over 1500 miles south of our most recent port of call. Home of several volcanic peaks, Rorotonga is the farthest south destination on our journey to paradise and is just North West of New Zealand. With its craggy peaks that rise from the islands center to its deep green valleys, the island is full of color from the flowering plants that grow in the rich volcanic soil. The fresh picked papaya’s, star fruit and banana’s were the best (juiciest and sweetest) either of us have ever tasted.

By request of Makea Takau, one of the then, 12 ariki (chiefs), Rarotonga was placed under the protection of the British in 1888 in an effort to protect it from an invasion of the French navy based in nearby Tahiti. To this day, the 15 islands that make up the Cook Islands, though very close to French Polynesia, remain an independent nation, closely aligned with New Zealand.

The Rotterdam anchored at the mouth of Avarua Harbor and we tendered ashore. Our day included a short walk around the port area and a snorkeling tour aboard the catamaran, “Hotel California”. The snorkeling, however, proved to be too much for John’s back and knees. Open Ocean snorkeling from a boat is a lot different and harder than snorkeling in shallow waters off the beach. When John jumped into the water, his body shut down causing him to lose focus and breathing control. He panicked and had to retreat to the boat where he found it hard to pull himself out of the water, but after a short rest and a bottle of beer, he was fine.

Tomorrow is another day at sea and the next port is Raiatea, in French Polynesia.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Alicia!

Oh, and yes Sandy found another fabric store!

Tabuaeran, Kiribati

March 21, 2010


We crossed over the International Date Line twice within a 48 hour period and during that time, have had to monitor the ships clocks and daily newsletter to know the exact date and time as we’ve lost whole days and gained new ones. The average air temperature is now 86 degrees and the water temperature is 89.

Our first stop in the South Pacific was the Kiribati Islands with Tebuaeran (Fanning island) being the first visited. This is one of the most under developed places in the pacific, with its 1950 plus population; Tebuaeran has no electricity or running water and receives nearly all of its supplies needs via private boats, cruise ships and a periodic supply ships out of Australia. Tabuearan is an aired low lying atoll with a land mass of 13 square miles, encircling a 426 square mile lagoon. The land is thickly covered with coconut palms and assorted native plants. We also saw some bread fruit, banana and mango trees scattered throughout the island. There are 32 islands that make up the country of Kiribati, of which only 7 are inhabited. The capital is located on the island of Bairiki, (Tarawa).

Entrance to Fanning lagoon at English Channel

The Tebuaeran people were very warm, friendly and inviting. We were greeted with the songs provided by several church groups of assorted ages. There were several long tables filled with hand crafted trinkets and souvenirs for sale, made of wood, shells and palm frowns. Sandy and I brought, several items with us for trading and general gift giving that were received with big grins and delight, fishing line and hooks, combs and brushes, lighters and sugar free bubble gum for the kids.

Tomorrow we will visit another one of Kiribati’s 32 islands, Kirimati (Christmas Island). However, due to the shallowness of the waters surrounding Kirimati, we will only sail around the island on our way to the Equator and our first stop in French Polynesia, Rorotonga.

Aloha to Hawaii

March 18, 2010


A 24 hour rest and lots of good drugs started John back to good health. Holland American’s medical staff does an amazing job of trying to keep all of its passengers in tip top condition. In fact, all of the Holland staff bend over backwards to assist the ultra aged and restricted mobility passengers. We have dozens of canes and crutches and dozens more with wheelchairs and electric scooters on this cruise, yet Holland’s staff has managed to get them on and off the ship with minimum delay, even on the difficult task of transferring to and from the shore tenders.

(March 14, 2010 Maui)

Before the sun rose over Mt Haleakala Crater we were sailing into Lahaina, Maui’s Harbor and were blessed to watch mother Humpback Whales teaching their calves to flap a side flipper or pound their tail on the water surface (their action shocks the fish which is how they catch their food source). It felt good to stand on solid ground after six days at sea and after only having broth, Jell-o and tea for the past day and a half, lunch was a cheese burger and fries with a root beer float at the Cool Cat Restaurant. The day was sunny, warm and filled with lots of fellow cruisers and other visitors to the Lahaina area. An arts and crafts fair was being held under the Banyon tree (that takes up a full city block). We loved all the sights, sounds and smells of Hawaii permeating our senses. A live guitarist played favorites and nearby, you could hear local kids laughing and playing in the surf, all of which made for an awesome Sunday afternoon. After dark, the dolphins were playful and really enjoyed the light our ship cast into the ocean.

(March 15, 2010 Honolulu)

John continues to heal and a visit to Honolulu helped immensely. Long time friend Barb Nolasco picked us up at the Aloha Tower Docks and took us on a driving tour and visit to The National Cemetery at Punch Bowl. We spent the rest of the afternoon at Barb’s home where Kathy Felipe and son Tyler joined us for dinner.

Sandy & Barb @ Punch Bowl

Pulling into the Port of Honolulu

(March 16, 2010 Kauai)

The deep water port of Kauai is called ‘Nawiliwili Harbor’ named for the wiliwili trees that long ago covered the shore. Upon arrival we rented a car for the day and made a COSTCO and Wal-Mart run for supplies, like more wine. Needless to say Sandy visited a few of her favorite fabric shops and before heading back to the ship, we had lunch at our preferred local restaurant in Lihue.

The ms Rotterdam in Nawiliwili Harbor

(March 17, 2010 Kona)

Another outstanding port as we were able to spend the day with long time friend, Barb Azbill. We shared lunch at Barb’s beautiful home and spent the afternoon catching up. Then we did a last minute supply run at Target before leaving our final USA port. At sail away, the Captain tried to give us a view of the active volcano, Kilauea, but the dark of night combined with smoke and ash (the locals call it Vog,) made it impossible to see any lava flowing into the sea.

Barb

Kailua Bay, Kona

Though we had been to the Hawaiian Islands many times in the past, this was by far one of the most relaxing and interesting ways to see and learn more about them. Things like there are more than 130 islands in the Hawaiian archipelago, but only seven are populated.

Well as we say Aloha to the Hawaiian Islands and the United States and head south to Tabuearan in the Kiribati Islands, the Sun is about to set, 5:45 PM, the water temp. is 76 degrees and wine is chilled so until we reach our first South Pacific port, “Parahi, nana”. (Tahitian for goodbye)

Aloha

March 13, 2010


We arrived in Hilo @ 10:00 AM this morning, but it didn’t do us any good as I got sick last night with a nasty GI infection and was quarantined in our suit for 24 hours restricted to clear broths and Jell-O. Sandy didn’t get whatever it was, but she didn’t feel all at that well either. They sent in a perky little nurse straight out of the movie, Fargo, a mask and rubber glove wearing team of stewards to strip down and freshen up our suite and a bunch of forms to complete for the CDC.

Hilo is heavily over casted today and since the last time we visited this side of the island we had issues with Madame Pele, the Volcano Goddess of Fire. There’s an old folk tale about not removing souvenirs from the Volcano area, particularly lava rock. (I didn’t heed the warning and within 15 minutes of picking up a rock and putting it in the trunk of our car, we had locked ourselves outside the running rental car, in the middle of Volcano National Park, miles from the closest Ranger Station). So this must be Pele’s way of welcoming us back to Hilo.

Are we there yet?

Day four at sea and we are 350 miles east of Hilo, Hawaii. We are slowly becoming aware that we don’t have to jump up and feed Jet and Mali or let them out. Actually, there’s no need to rush out to do anything, we even had breakfast in our stateroom yesterday, woo-hoo!


We have found the Rotterdam to be a beautiful ship. The crew members work very hard to keep her neat and clean and she responds like a fine wine, aging gracefully, with purpose.

We left San Diego around 6:30 PM Monday, approximately 1:00 hour late due to the fact that they had to strip down and reload most of the supplies. The rumor on board was that they had a slight bout with the Norovirus or intestinal flu while in South America. They replaced most of their food handling equipment and supplies and wiped down all public contact surfaces. For the first 48 hours, there were no buffets or open food service areas and before we enter the dining room, you must sanitize your hands. by day three, all was back to normal.

The storm that was hanging off San Diego’s coast Monday, proved to be quit a nuisance. We rocked and rolled for two days and experienced 40 mile per hour winds and 7 to 12.6 foot rollers. The back and knees surgery got a royal work out. Last night, the water calmed and has started to warm up a bit. This morning the ship is running smooth and true at an average speed of 20 knots with 4 to 7 foot rollers.

Day one at sea, the Cruise Critic group, of which I’m part, held a champagne, “meet & greet” which gave us the opportunity to meet Captain Krombeen and a few members of his staff. Being that this cruise was oversold, we sure don’t see very many people walking around. The dining rooms, however, are full at meal times.

The food is wonderful, as are the choices. Lunch and dinner are 4 courses and there are always as many as 6 entrée to choose from, not to mention the pizza grill. Breakfast is a free for all. There will be no dieting on this puppy. Last night was our first formal and Captains welcome aboard champagne party. The Captain introduced his staff and mingled for photo-ops. Dinner was equal to the occasion.

To day we toured the main galley today and met the Executive Chef. They have 102 people working in food services, from the executive Chef to the General purpose Attendants. They prepare nearly 170000 pounds of beef poultry and fish daily, let alone over 18000 eggs. They have a second galley for employees. Since 90% of the staff or either Indonesian or Pilipino, they have a 2 Indonesian chefs and 1 Filipino chef to prepare their food.

The closer we get to Hawaii, the warmer it getting, not that we’re in a hurry to get there, but every time the Captain comes on the horn with a log report, it does get your juices flowing. The temperature is 64 degrees and the water temperature is 74 degrees. We saw flying fish this morning, which is always a good indication that we are in tropical waters.

Well its nap time, so I will close here but will send more later.

And the fun begins

I don’t know about you, but we have never had to pack for a trip over 16 days long. It is amazing to see all of the “STUFF” that you use on a daily and regular basis, laid out in front of you, times 34, then try and pack it all. It’s one thing to pack shorts, t-shirts and tennis shoes in a duffel bag, but we’re talking 9 formal dinner nights. I mean can you imagine dressing in full Tuxedo (and white dinner jacket), 9 times with in a 30 day period?  At least the rest of the nights will be “smart casual” and for us that means island attire.

You are pretty vulnerable when cruising. Besides your normal health, beauty and laundry needs, you have to try and anticipate any emergency needs that might arise such as colds, cuts or anything else that might put you at a disadvantage.  It wouldn't be so bad if all the ports we’re visiting gave us the ability to pop into a drug store or pharmacy and pick up things when needed, however, once we cross Equator, we will visit places like Fanning Island where they don’t  have electricity let alone a drugs store. So for that reason, I have packed a mini pharmacy filled with things we might need and can always use later. Then there is your basic fun “stuff” like cameras, books, IPOD, snorkel gear and wine. Oh yea, we packed a few bottles of our favorite wine and champagne.

We hope to get it all in 4 large bags and 2 suit bags the laptop and camera bags.  Being that Sandy has not packed yet, I may need to revise that count.

More when we are away.